Jessica Valderrama
Post-purchase Death Syndrome, or PPDS, refers to a condition in which hermit crabs fail to survive after being introduced into a captive environment. This syndrome is caused by the crab’s inability to physiologically adapt quickly enough to drastic environmental changes, such as those experienced during their capture, shipping, and eventual housing in pet stores or new homes. The stress is not emotional but rather physical, involving the crab’s metabolic processes and access to vital resources like water, food, and appropriate heat and humidity.
Key Factors Leading to PPDS:
1. Environmental Stress: Rapid changes in temperature, humidity, and access to resources (salt water, fresh water, and appropriate substrate) can overwhelm a crab’s ability to regulate its internal processes.
2. Nutritional Deficits: Without proper food and water, crabs cannot fuel the metabolic adjustments necessary to adapt to new conditions.
3. Prolonged Dehydration: Damage to the gills from insufficient humidity or water access can be fatal.
4. Physiological Limits: The crab’s built-in mechanisms for coping with change (hibernation, osmotic regulation) require time and adequate resources to function effectively.
How to Prevent PPDS:
Gradual acclimation is essential to minimize the risk of PPDS. This involves:
• Isolation Tank Setup: Place new crabs in a separate tank with starting environmental conditions that match those of their previous setting low humidity and moderate temperature) rather than immediately introducing them to an ideal crabitat.
• Incremental Adjustments: Slowly increase humidity and temperature increments over several days to weeks until the desired levels are reached. For example:• Start with 70% humidity and 72°F temperature for 72 hours.
• Gradually raise humidity by 5% every 72 hours until it matches your main tank’s conditions.
• Nutrition and Hydration: Provide access to both fresh and salt water, along with nutrient-rich foods to support metabolic recovery.
• Observation and Support: Monitor the crabs closely for signs of stress or deterioration during this acclimation period.
Challenges and Limitations:
Despite these efforts, some crabs may not survive due to:
1. Pre-existing Damage: Prolonged dehydration or poor care during collection and transport can irreversibly harm their gills or internal systems.
2. Metabolic Exhaustion: If a crab’s reserves are depleted before it can adjust to its new environment, survival becomes unlikely.
3. Molting Stress: Crabs forced to molt during the critical adjustment phase are at higher risk of death.
Exotic hermit crabs should not be deprived of the proper heat and humidity, as this can lead to unnecessary stress and potential health issues. When you receive exotic crabs during the warm months, they should immediately be provided with a stable environment of 84-85% humidity and a temperature of 84-85°F. If you receive them during the cold months, start with 80% humidity and 80°F. Gradually increase these levels by one degree and one percent each week, provided the crabs are eating and active. This slow adjustment helps them acclimate without overwhelming their systems.
For hermit crabs that come from proper conditions or are captive-bred, they should not be subjected to Post-Purchase Death Syndrome (PPDS) protocols. These crabs are already accustomed to appropriate care standards, and forcing unnecessary acclimation processes will only stress them further. Always evaluate the origin and current condition of your crabs to provide them with the best care tailored to their specific needs.
While PPDS cannot be eliminated, adopting a gradual acclimation process and providing proper resources can significantly improve survival rates. Patience, observation, and careful adjustments are key to giving new hermit crabs the best chance to thrive in their new homes.
Purple Pinchers PPDS
Here’s a weekly breakdown of how to gradually increase environmental conditions to help hermit crabs adjust and reduce the risk of Post-Purchase Death Syndrome (PPDS):
Week 1: Initial Acclimation
Rehydration and stabilization in a transitional environment.
1. Humidity: Start at 70%, reflecting the poor conditions they likely endured.
• Maintain access to fresh and saltwater at all times.
2. Temperature: Set at 72°F, a moderate starting point.
3. Food: Offer 50% proteins and foods like honey, boiled eggs, or spirulina. Calcium, worm casting, and green sand should be available at all times. For more options like dry mixes please refer to the safe food guide.
4. Substrate: Use a lightly moist substrate 5 parts children's play sand and 1 part Eco-earth thoroughly mixed with a max of 1 inch, no hides.
5. Observation:
• During the first two weeks there will be very minimal activity. (They will spend this time (de-stressing).
• Keep in mind hermit crabs are nocturnal.
Week 2: Gradual Environmental Increase
Goal: Slowly move towards more stable conditions.
1. Humidity: Increase by 5%-10% every 3 days ( 70% → 75%).
• This gradual increase prevents respiratory shock. Allows time for their gills to adjust.
2. Temperature: Raise to 75°F in small increments of 1-2 degrees every 2 days.
3. Food: Introduce protein-rich foods like shrimp, chicken, or bug mix alongside fruit, vegetables, and seeds. Calcium, worm casting, and green sand should be available at all times.
4. Behavior Monitoring:
• Crabs should show slightly increased activity levels.
• Monitor for any signs of molting preparation, like digging or reduced eating.
Week 3: Stabilization in Ideal Conditions
Goal: Bring conditions close to your main tank’s optimal range.
1. Humidity: Continue increasing until you reach 80% or the range of your main tank.
2. Temperature: Set at 78°F-80°F.
3. Food: Offer a varied diet, including calcium sources like cuttlebone or crushed eggshells.
4. Socialization: If the crabs appear less stressed and more active, Your crabs should be ready to be introduced to the main tank in a week.
5. Observation:
• Look for signs of normal behavior, like climbing, shell changing, eating, and foraging.
• Ensure they continue drinking from water dishes (fresh and salt).
Week 4: Integration and Monitoring
Goal: Transition into long-term living conditions.
1. Humidity and Temperature: Match your main tank conditions (typically 80% humidity and 80°F).
2. Food: Fully integrate them into your routine feeding plan with variety and enrichment.
3. Main Tank Transition: Introduce the crabs to the main tank if they appear healthy and adjusted.
• Avoid this step if the crabs seem weak. Repeat the last steps if needed.
4. Final Monitoring:
• If Crabs appear active, eating and drinking at night, they are ready to be added to their main tank.
Additional Notes
• If at any point a crab shows signs of extreme stress (lethargy, dropped limbs, or dropped shell), they should be isolated accordingly. For additional help please reach out to us for proper instructions.
• Avoid moving crabs into “ideal” conditions too quickly—it can shock their system.
• Keep detailed notes on behavior, eating habits, and environmental changes for each week.
This weekly method allows the crabs’ metabolism and processes to catch up gradually, minimizing the risks of PPDS.
Exotics PPDS (Cold Months Only)
Week 1:
• Humidity: 80%
• Temperature: 80°F
• Care Notes: Observe the crabs closely. Ensure they are eating and active. Avoid sudden changes or handling. Offer fresh food and clean water daily.
Week 2:
• Humidity: 81%
• Temperature: 81°F
• Care Notes: If the crabs are showing signs of eating and exploring, increase both the humidity and temperature by 1%. Monitor for any signs of stress, or lethargy. Offer calcium, worm casting, and green sand these should be available at all times.
Week 3:
• Humidity: 82%
• Temperature: 82°F
• Care Notes: Continue observing the crabs. Provide a variety of foods to encourage appetite. Offer calcium, worm casting, and green sand these should be available at all times. Ensure they have access to both freshwater and saltwater pools.
Week 4:
• Humidity: 83%
• Temperature: 83°F
• Care Notes: By now, the crabs should be adapting well. Look for normal activity levels. At this stage, your crabs should be fully acclimated. Continue to monitor their health and behavior regularly. At this point, they can be added to the main tank.
This gradual increase ensures the crabs can adjust to their new conditions without becoming overwhelmed. Remember, always adapt based on the individual crab’s behavior and needs.
Supplies Checklist:
• Glass Tank with Glass Lid: A 10-gallon per Crab minimum size tank 20 gallons and for any additional crab added tank, smaller tanks can be more challenging to regulate.
• Thermostat: Essential for regulating the heat
• Heat Pad: Should cover 75% of the back wall. Full length if you encounter colder winters. May need insulation for efficient temperature control.
• Climbing Accessories: Include fake plants and logs to provide enrichment and climbing opportunities. A hamster wheel can help promote activity.
• Substrate Layers: Mix 5 parts of children's play sand to 1 part Eco-earth mixed well. Substrate depth should be no more than 1 inch.
• Water Pools: Provide both fresh and saltwater pools, treated with a water conditioner such as Prime.
• Lighting: Overhead light (non-heat emitting) set on a 12-hour cycle of on/off.
• Digital Gauges: Ensure accurate monitoring of temperature and humidity. Must be calibrated.
• Spare Shells: Always have 3-5 appropriately sized shells available for shell changes per crab.
• Emergency Molting Setup: Keep a 2-liter bottle cut in half or a small container on hand for isolating crabs if they happen to surface molt.
- Food: Dry mixes from approved sellers. Offer 1/4 tsp of a few mixes. Fresh food should be changed out the next morning—50% proteins daily (Do not offer the same thing in the week).